Article

Back to the roots with Chanderi Apparel

Topic: FashionPublished December 12, 2017
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“The subtle sheen and transparency make Chanderi feminine and the fabric is so light that even if 20 meters is used in a dress, you won’t feel the weight. It’s the perfect year-round fabric for India.”

Designer Vijay Balhara

With the soaring temperature and global warming slowly becoming a reality, it was natural that clothes would be now flavored if they are light and breathable clothes. That is one of the major reasons why attention is now backing upon this elegant, homegrown silk – Chanderi. Lighter than ordinary silk and dressier than cotton, Chanderi has slowly made its way into the fashionable Indian’s essential. Fascination with Chanderi has a lot to do with the urge to adapt the fabric to more contemporary needs.

The Name

The rich and vibrant fabric is named after the place Chanderi located in the state of Madhya Pradesh in India. This area is located in the middle of the country and is characterized by dense forests and varying topography. Its recorded history is from 11th century and the place is marked by its closeness to two other Indian states, Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh. Chanderi was also located on ancient trade routes and its culture and traditions are the result of influence from the surroundings.

These geographic and cultural influences are depicted in the fabric produced in Chanderi. The weaving capabilities have grown and changed over time to reflect various methods of weave and silk thread availability.
The Legend

Chanderi is believed to have its origin back in the Vedic Period. Another legend says that this method of weaving and combining threads was found by Lord Krishna’s cousin, Shishupal. Today Chanderi produces three kinds of fabrics: Pure Silk, Chanderi Cotton and Silk Cotton. Their motifs have come a long way from the traditional coin, floral and peacocks to the geometrics

The Fabric

Fabric is generally the combination of three raw materials: cotton, silk thread, and zari. All of these materials are imported from other regions in India, as well as China, Japan, and Korea. The colors of this fabric are both natural as well as chemical. Currently, chemical dyes are fast replacing the natural ones because of their fast-acting quality. Traditional looms are still used as the primary means of production which are – pitlooms, dobby, and jacquard looms. The hand-woven silk has a light, sheer quality that sets it apart from the bulk textiles produced in factories.

Photo credit: https://www.tjori.com/p/papayawhip-chanderi-banarsi-saree/38571/

Employment and dependency

Due to small amount of silk that is produced, there is very little economic data. The production of Chanderi silk employs approximately 60% of the village population. In order to protect themselves from against market forces, many of the local weavers have formed cooperatives which set standards for the price and quality of the products available.
Chanderi is a product intricately woven by hand interspersed with the delicacy of the extra weft motifs that has for times immemorial satisfied the refined tastes of the royalty. Quality of Chanderi fabric is in existence since Moghul times and found mention if the Govt. gazetteer and various other history books written on Chanderi.
Geographic Indication status:

The production and craft of Chanderi has been protected by India as a Geographic Indication (GI). This is a sign used on products with a specific geographical origin, which have certain qualities because of the place they have originated from.

Discover a dazzling world of handcrafted chanderi fabric juxtapositioned on contemporary Indian silhouttes.

Image source: https://www.tjori.com/p/sea-green-chanderi-saree-with-ajrakh-border/56370/

Sea Green Silk Cotton Chanderi Saree With Ajrakh Borderr
Created in a beautiful shade of sea green and decorated with a contrasting Ajrakh border, this saree showcases timeless elegance. Handcrafted with Chanderi and Cotton this saree is the perfect example of fine ethnic craftsmanship.
Image source: https://www.tjori.com/p/nishith-turquoise-chanderi-dupatta-with-zari-motifs/55876/

Nishith Turquoise Chanderi Dupatta With Zari Motifsr
Showcasing a zari border and floral details this tassel dupatta is an ethnic essential. Crafted on Chanderi this dupatta is sure to add a royal touch to your outfit.

Image source: https://www.tjori.com/p/midnight-black-chanderi-kurta-and-straight-pant-set-with-dupatta/55939/

Midnight Black Chanderi Kurta And Straight Pant Set With Dupattar
Created in a beautiful shade of black and decorated with Zari embroidery, this set showcases timeless grace. Handcrafted to perfection, this festive set is sure to add a royal touch to your wardrobe.

Image source: https://www.tjori.com/p/pastel-green-chanderi-kurta-and-palazzo-set-with-dupatta/55931/

Pastel Green Chanderi Kurta And Palazzo Set With Dupattar
Decorated with embroidered zari details, A-line palazzo pants and tassel dupatta, this Chanderi set radiates oodles of charm. Handcrafted to perfection, this festive set is sure to add a royal touch to your wardrobe.

Image source: https://www.tjori.com/p/flamingo-pink-and-gold-chanderi-skirt/59847/

Pink And Gold Silk Cotton Chanderi Skirtr
Embrace royalty with this Flamingo Pink Yoke Waist Chanderi Skirt. It is decorated with light gold Gota detailing. The fine pleats create an interesting pattern. Handloomed silk cotto
Chanderi fabric gives this skirt a regal silhouette and it’s cotton voile lining makes it comfortable to wear, everywhere. This skirt also comes with an alluring matching latkan.

https://www.tjori.com/apparel/chanderi-apparel-with-zari-embroidery/new/

Further reading

Further Reading

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