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Jewellery making in India has been influenced by different cultures like the Mughal and Persian cultures. Kundan jewellery and Jadau jewellery are the best examples of the same. In India, jewellery not just has a traditional significance but also has a religious significance. Jadau also known as Jadtar or Jadaii is said to have been originated in Jaipur and Gujarat. Jadau jewellery is considered to be a Mughal art. It has also been known to be influenced by the Persian culture. The Jadau technique is believed to have been brought to India by the Mughals but Indian artisans of Rajasthan and Gujarat perfected the craft and added their unique touches to make it their own. In the West it is popularly known as Bezel Set Gemstone Jewellery. It is a complicated method of setting precious gemstones in gold. ‘Jad’ means to be embedded and that is the technique used by highly skilled artisans to make the jewellery. In the olden days, Jadau jewellery would be made with a Polki stone and some colourful Meenakari work, but as style and diversity has started to take over the ethnic designs, the collection has become wide.

The process of Jadau making involves heating pure gold to make it malleable, creating a frame and setting precious stones in appropriate spaces. For the setting of gemstones or Polki, no synthetic material such as adhesives are used. Instead, products like natural wax are used to set each piece of the gemstone in gold. When the gold cools down, the gemstones or Polki fit appropriately in the ornament, making a beautiful piece of jewellery. Once the stones are set, the jeweller proceeds with the Meenakari work, patiently working with one colour at a time. Traditional Jadau jewellery has stones encrusted on one side and colorful and intricate Meenakari work on the other side. Jadau work is complicated and hence requires artisans with great skills. Each craftsman has a specific task.