Is it all hype the warnings about the Brazilian Keratin treatment?

What curly hair needs to know about Brazilians, straighteners and moisture

Is it all hype, the warnings about the Brazilian Keratin treatment. It does seem that this procedure has been singled out in particular and perhaps unfairly. After all we inject Botox into our faces and wear lipstick containing lead along with all sorts of daily exposures we take for granted. Most of the controversy is focused on a brand of straitener called the Brazilian Blowout, a brand name of this type of treatment. In fact there are dozens of brands for this treatment containing varying percentages of formalin. Many brands make the claim to be totally formalin or formaldehyde free. So far the investigations are still going on and the heat of the controversy is getting hotter and hotter.

As a stylist I use a brand of Keratin treatment that I believe to be the most free of toxins while getting good results. I will personally attest to its’ having absolutely no objectionable odor. In fact its scent is pleasantly reminiscent of chocolate. A fact my clients find very reassuring in light of all the fuss. One client (a biologist) stated “I can assure you by the smell alone that there is absolutely no formaldehyde in that product. If there is anything I know it is the smell of formaldehyde.”
Here are some general guidelines about smoothing and straitening curly hair.

The skinny on the Japanese straitening treatment

The Japanese straightening method is best on bulky, loose to medium, not kinky curls. The process can be a marathon eight hours for the first treatment (depending on the amount of hair). After that root touch ups run about three to four hours. While your hair will now be sleek and shiny (even after air-drying), you’re left with one styling option: dead straight. Even curling irons or hot rollers won’t restore volume or wave. Cost runs $500 to $1,500. Hair is required to stay dry free of clips pony tails or anything think can kink hair for three days.

Conventional relaxers can soften coarse, tight curls; they use chemicals similar to permanent waves only much stronger that break various protein bonds in the hair. The solution is left on for up to 20 minutes, rinsed, then neutralized. Cost: $50 to $250.

Keep in mind that...since both of these treatments permanently change the structure of the hair, you have to continue them or endure a grow-out period. They contain damaging chemicals, so don't consider either one if your hair is already overprocessed. Tell the stylist everything you've done to your hair in the past two years—bleach and some hennas don't react well with the chemical in thermal reconditioning solutions, and colored hair may be too fragile to handle a relaxer, which is particularly harsh.

The group of strengtheners referred to as Brazilian and Keratin type therapies, smooth the surface of the hair but don't permanently break bonds, so your natural texture gradually returns. It is the Brazilian treatments, however, have been shown to contain varying amounts of formaldehyde in addition to keratin protein. Many makers of this group say their products use a "captured form of formaldehyde," and that any formaldehyde gas released during the treatment is below the exposure limit set by the Occupational Safety & Health Administration. (Stylists attest that it does not have the noxious odor of the Brazilian treatments, but independent testing has not demonstrated how much formaldehyde is released during use.) After the product is applied, the hair is blow-dried, then flatironed; the solution stays in the hair until you shampoo three to four days later. Again one should not wear clips or a pony tail or do anything that will kink the hair during this time. These treatments can be done on color-treated hair and are effective on everything from waves to tight curls; they control frizz but maintain some texture and volume. Though you'll still need to blow-dry hair straight, the process will require far less effort. In fact I have found the blow dry to be less effort even after the affect seems to be otherwise worn off. Additionally the results tend to compound, meaning the second time is more effective and last longer than the first and the third lasts longer than the second and so on. Cost: $300 to $600.

If you want something that will smooth your hair until your next shampoo......a deep conditioner controls frizz by restoring moisture to the hair. Work the product from roots to ends, and slip on a plastic shower cap for 10 minutes (it traps heat from your scalp and helps conditioners penetrate the hair's cuticle), then rinse. No marathon salon visits or grow-out period necessary. Cost: $5 to $50 (for a tub of conditioner). Every hairstylist I know recommends constant moistening for all types of curly hair, processed or not. This hair is often deficient of moisture as if comes out of the scalp. If you have curly hair moisture is your first and last line of defense, make it your best friend.